Lakes & Hot Springs Loop

Route, write-up, and photos by: Ali Becker and Mat Leblanc. Find them on Instagram: @trip.longer Get in touch with Ali here and be sure to check out Ali’s great website

We gratefully acknowledge that this route exists on the traditional, ancestral and unceded territory of the Sinixt, Syilx, Secwepemc and Ktunaxa peoples and it is with great respect that we traverse these sacred lands. 

The Lakes & Hot Springs Loop is a scenic and rewarding 550 kilometre (342 mile), figure eight bikepacking route that begins and ends in the burgeoning village of Nakusp in the Central Kootenay region of British Columbia, Canada.

This mixed road route gains over 8,098 m (26, 570 ft) in elevation as it explores every spectacular side of Upper Arrow Lakes, and traverses the entirety of the lush Lardeau Valley, connecting the two areas with some small but stunning mountain summits and eclectic Kootenay communities.

Those who choose to ride this remote-feeling route will pass by fourteen charming freshwater lakes and more than a dozen BC Recreation Sites, all of which offer great opportunities to have a picnic and pit house break, set up camp and gather fresh water.

The loop lives up to its name as it rolls through ‘The Valley of the Hot Springs’ giving travellers the choice of soaking in a selection of three rejuvenating hot springs - the more developed mineral pools of Halcyon and Nakusp Hot Springs or the more rustic and remote at Halfway River Hot Springs.

Lakes & Hot Springs travellers get a chance to observe the rugged mountain ranges that line the valley as they embark upon two free ferry sailings that cross both the north and south end of Upper Arrow Lakes. As of June 2022, riders also get to navigate an exhilarating cable car crossing over Carpenter Creek along the Galena Trail.

The Lakes & Hot Springs route connects active, undulating forest service roads with quiet stretches of paved Kootenay backroads and historic rail trails and wagon roads which offer a diverse mix of challenging, engaging and easy-rolling terrain.

WHEN TO GO

This route is best travelled between late May and early October and is quietest during shoulder seasons. Route difficulty changes as the logging road terrain fluctuates due to melting snow, heavy rains, grading activity or dry, dusty conditions in peak summer heat. 

Forest service roads are best navigated on weekends when the logging traffic is usually less active, but riders should beware of industry and recreational traffic at all times. Due to the remote nature of the route, cell reception is often limited or non-existent.

ROUTE OPTIONS

The figure eight loop can be ridden as routed OR broken down into two shorter loops :

A) Starting in Kaslo and heading north up the Lardeau Valley past Trout Lake, then west and south down the quiet, paved Hot Springs Highway 23 (which Halcyon, Halfway & Nakusp Hot Springs are located along and/or just off) to Nakusp. From Nakusp, head along the Nakusp & Slocan Rail Trail (connect at the Nakusp Golf Course as there is a washout on the trail near town) to the Galena Trail to New Denver and up and over the summit back to Kaslo (you can take the Kaslo Wagon Road from the summit). Can be ridden either direction ~280km, 3 - 5+ days

B) Starting in Nakusp, heading south to the Fauquier/Needles Ferry and then north along the west side of Upper Arrow Lakes on the Whatshan, Stephens, Fosthall and Shelter Bay forest service roads, across the Shelter Bay ferry and south down the Hot Springs Highway 23 (which Halcyon, Halfway & Nakusp Hot Springs are located along and/or just off) and back to Nakusp. Can be ridden in either direction. ~223km, 3 - 5+ days

(These kilometres are estimations that don’t take into consideration riding into and out of the hot springs or stopping at resupply spots)

C) One BIG LOOP that avoids rolling the whole length of the paved Hot Springs Highway 23 (which the figure eight does - twice) and instead, does and out and back to Halcyon and/or Nakusp Hot Springs at either end of the pavement (but misses the Halfway Hot Springs) 

~462km, 5+ days (km includes out and back dips to Halcyon and Nakusp)

ROUTE DIFFICULTY

Overall, this route should be considered moderate to challenging, mostly because of the remote nature of the trip, which traverses through grizzly, black bear, cougar and wolf territory, as well as the changing terrain conditions on the forest service roads. 

KASLO

NAKUSP

NEW DENVER

OTHER

There is a well-stocked grocery store in Meadow Creek 

There is a small c-store in Trout Lake with VERY LIMITED HOURS

Burton City Cider in Burton has delicious craft ciders made from their on-site orchard, small food menu and snacks but VERY LIMITED HOURS

In Fauquier, the H&H Convenience store is open 9am - 5pm every day and has amazing cinnamon blossoms (buns).

For more information about the Arrow Slocan area, cycle touring and bikepacking routes, the regions resources and fun things to do and see in the area, check out the Arrow Slocan Tourism website and blog.